Monday, August 14, 2017

Seals and solitude

I could hear every fart and snore from the other guests all night, but the earplugs certainly helped. I’m out the door on my adventure before anyone else wakes up. It’s a sunny day and I can’t imagine how anyone can sleep the morning away. I start the day with a nice walk before I head back to make my usual travel breakfast of porridge. By 10am I’m on my bike heading further up the road. Just a few minutes into the tour I see a seal real close just sunbathing on a rock. I pull the binoculars out of my backpack and watch him for the longest time. I’m sure he was watching me too. What a beautiful and amazing creature.

My next stop is at Selvíkurhöfði, where I have lunch in the sun and a long nap. In fact, it’s so beautiful up on this peak, that I really have no need to do anything else but sit here and enjoy the day. I am surrounded by crowberries (the blueberries aren’t ripe here yet) and soft moss to rest in. I have food and water and a tarp to lie on. I stay for a long time.

I decide to go at least a little bit further although the big hill up to Naustavík is daunting. I take another break up there and the view is equally spectacular. I see a hiking trail off to the left which is marked on my map as well and leads into Svartagil. But I’m done for the day and deicde to turn back and just stop if I see anything interesting. 

First of all, there’s a horse trail marked on my map through Göngumannaskörð but I can’t really find anything resembling a trail. Not uncommon here – the maps sometimes just point the way and you have to break the trail yourself. I take a nice walk on the beach and a few more small breaks before I’m back in Djúpavík at 5pm. 

Just as I pour myself some coffee, one of the staff tells me I have to switch rooms. They’re so sorry and will give me a special price and free breakfast and all that and I’m silently thinking to myself: I don’t think anything can be worse than the closet I slept in last night so yes, please move me! Indeed the new room is much nicer and above all, quiet. I am in Lækjarkot, which only has two rooms and a shared bath, but there’s no one else in there today and I have it all to myself. The room is spacious and I can certainly leave the earplugs in their wrappers. 

I treat myself to dinner in the restaurant tonight. The menu is nice, with vegetarian and vegan options available. I order vegetarian couscous and it’s made with fresh vegetables and really tasty. Then I look at the art exhibitions in the old factory and take another evening walk. 

All in all, Djúpavík is back to its peaceful self today. I think it was so busy yesterday because it was still the weekend and the locals were out enjoying the day. All the people from the afternoon were mostly travelling through, just stopping for coffee or lunch. The hotel is pretty full, but the guests are out and about doing their thing. I am glad to have this comfortable oasis in the wilderness and I am glad the tourism boom is helping this little place to survive. The prices here are still reasonable, the food is good, the place is warm and friendly.