I'll be back!

Next trips to Iceland:
February 2-12, 2012
July/August 2012

Winter Wonderland in Reykjavík

Snowy Christmas in Reykjavík

Northern Lights and goodbyes

Two nights ago I finally saw the northern lights for the first time in Iceland. The internet predicted good viewing conditions and the sky was clear. Before it was even completely dark, I could see them dancing across the sky from the window. I went down to the ocean to watch them and lots of other people were out looking as well. The next night, the lights gave another nice display. They really are mainly green, and only once briefly did I see a flash of purple. As I kid I saw the northern lights in North America and I remember them being very colorful. But I’m certainly not complaining. This was a real special treat and the perfect way to end my birthday trip to Iceland.

I’ll be back for Christmas ...

Enjoying Reykjavík

Photos: Reykjavík

Enjoying Reykjavík, beautiful fall weather, quite windy at times but clear blue skies every day.

Rain ... and going back to town

Photos: Random pictures taken at Þórsmörk

I’m up early as usual. It’s raining on and off. After breakfast, I pack up and turn in the key to the hut. I’m taking the bus back to Reykjavík today. Then I head outside to pick some berries. I head out along the river Markarfljót and up the trail there that I was on the other day, my eyes trained to the ground looking for berries. I don’t see any blueberries, so I end up picking crowberries (krækiber) instead. I fill an empty juice bottle with berries, but then the rain finally wins the battle and I admit defeat. I spend the rest of the day in the cafe, just reading and watching the rain out the window. The bus finally comes in the late afternoon.

Back in Reykjavík, the weather is fine. The owners of the small apartment pick me up at the bus station and I check into my little home for the next six days.

Þröngsá

Photos: (1-2) Húsadalur; (3) river Krossá; (4) Alaska? Þórsmörk!; (5) river Markarfljót; (6) river Þröngsá

I’m off on my own today. It’s a bit cloudier but dry, although it rained quite a bit in the night. I head out at 10am for a hike, heading first through Hamraskógar forest, then north up the popular Laugavegur trail to the river Þröngsá. There I make myself comfortable perched up on a hill, spreading my rain jacket on the ground and pulling out a bag of nuts. I‘m going to sit and watch the hikers cross the river. This river, deep in spots with a strong current, often poses a challenge to hikers and it‘s entertaining to watch how each person deals with it differently. Some walk up and down for nearly an hour, looking for the best spot to cross. Some plow right through it without even taking off their boots, and probably regret it afterwards – it‘s deeper than it looks! in any case, the Þröngsá is relatively harmless unless it‘s been raining heavily, and is best crossed where it‘s wider since narrow spots are often deeper. Still, it‘s a serious river where hikers ideally should switch into wading gear and be careful. Today I am able to watch about 10 people cross and I chat with a few of them. Then just for fun, I take off my shoes, zip off the legs of my pants, put on my wading shoes and test the waters myself – although I have no intention of actually crossing. It‘s fun as I test out various spots. The current is indeed quite strong and the water up to my thighs in spots – and without a heavy backpack, it knocks me off balance a bit. To dry off, I meander down the river bed as far as I can, examining rocks.

It’s noontime and I head back east on the trail to Básar, where I come across a pleasant French guy having lunch. After exchanging a few words, I sit down to join him and he’s even willing to share some of the culinary snacks he’s brought with him from France. Soon it gets quite chilly sitting around so we get moving again. I decide to accompany him for a few kilometers on his way to Básar. For me it’s quite out of the way, and I will probably have to turn around eventually and head back, but for now it sounds like a good idea. The trail is narrow and quite steep in spots – it’s one of the numerous smaller trails leading through the national park. Eventually I turn back and we part ways after first exchanging email addresses – it would be nice to hear exactly where this trail leads and if he makes it to Básar ok.

Returning along the same trail, everything looks different and I discover a humungous mushroom the size of my hiking boot. After an extensive photo session with the model mushroom, I continue downhill on the trail - and slip, sliding and skinning my knee. Although my knee is bleeding, there’s no hole in my trousers. I’m absolutely fine but for a few moments I am aware of how fast accidents can happen, even when you think you’re being careful. So after all that excitement, I soon find a nice spot in the grass overlooking a different part of the Þröngsá and take a nap. I doze for about half an hour before it gets too chilly. The clouds are rolling in and I decide to call it a day and slowly head back to Húsadalur before it rains. On the trail back I notice numerous tire tracks – looks like mountain bikers, and a whole group at that.

Back at base camp, the mountain bikers are there, taking showers and packing their gear into the truck. It doesn’t look like they’re staying overnight. But some of the other huts are full now, and it begins to rain. I guess no one likes camping when it’s wet. I just rest and relax most of the evening in my cozy hut, and venture out in the evening during a break in the rain for a short walk.